Switching from trailering to storing in a saltwater slip... what is a "must do" to protect bravo3?

acarleson

Seaman
Joined
Nov 8, 2016
Messages
65
I run a b3 on a trailer. Switching to a salt slip. I've heard nightmares about b3s in the water as far as corrosion. I hope they're overblown but just in case I want to do EVERYTHING possible to reduce corrosion.

Trying to build a comprehensive list of all the things that I must, must do that actually help, and maybe learning about the things that people say to do but that don't actually help all that much.

Obviously new anodes and regular checking is #1. What else?

thank you all
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,351
making sure the factory bonding is intact , monitoring your zinks for wear, adding additional bonding wires to the cylinders, making sure the steeering arm bond is connected to the inner transom and the transom bond is connected to the engine.
Additionall make sure you do not have an electrical bonding issue on your dock, test for stray current in the water
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,649
With boat connected to shore power use a digital meter and connect Negative to battery ground. Connect the positive side to something like the mercruiser PROBE . Meter should read between

Salt, Polluted or Mineral Laden Water Areas:
750 - 1180 Millivolts with Digital Meter
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,363
In addition to what is covered above

On the boat side, barrier coat and bottom paint

On the out drive and props, a protective coating such as prop speed

On the issue with bottom growth, a good hooka rig or a tank setup for monthly bottom cleaning
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,116
The outdrive will need antifouling protection. I would recommend you brush on a coat of Trilux. I have found the spray-on A-F paint to have lousy coverage.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,093
get ready to suffer with painting that damn thing every year, it is a job I dread more and more
and yes, Chris is right, the spray doesn't last, depending on your area for fouling, I have found that brushing on 2 coats lasts the season.
And spray the engine oil pan and timing cover with rust prevention spray like fluid film or similar, every season and check all your hose clamps for any raw water leaks, they will rust things like crazy.
 
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